Women's Fashions in 1919

 

The year 1919 represented a pivotal transition in women's fashion, marking a decisive break from pre-war sartorial conventions. The most significant shift manifested in silhouette: the rigid, corseted S-curve that characterized the pre-1914 period gave way to a more linear, vertical line. This transformation reflected both practical adaptations developed during wartime and broader social changes affecting women's roles.

The wartime necessity of practical clothing influenced 1919's dominant silhouette: skirts shortened to approximately mid-calf length, while waistlines became less defined, often sitting slightly lower than the natural waist. The barrel-line silhouette of 1919 featured a narrow hem and a fuller mid-section, contrasting sharply with the pre-war emphasis on narrow waists and flowing skirts. Daytime dresses typically featured straight-cut bodices with minimal internal structure, though light corsetry remained common.

Fabric selection and implementation reflected both post-war austerity and changing social norms. While pre-war fashions had emphasized elaborate trimmings and multiple fabric layers, 1919 saw increasing popularity of simpler, more economical cuts that required less material. Serge, gabardine, and tricotine dominated daywear, while evening designs employed lighter fabrics like crepe de chine and georgette. The war's interruption of European textile production led to increased use of American-made fabrics, influencing both availability and design aesthetics.

The influence of military styling persisted in 1919's fashionable outerwear, with belted coats featuring large pockets and broad collars becoming widespread. These garments often incorporated design elements from military uniforms, such as epaulettes and brass buttons, reflecting the recent wartime experience. The previously essential petticoat diminished in importance as skirts became narrower and less structured.

Evening wear witnessed perhaps the most dramatic transformation. The heavily structured, floor-length gowns of the pre-war era gave way to more fluid designs that allowed greater freedom of movement. Hemlines rose to ankle length for formal occasions, while necklines became more varied, including the adoption of the bateau neckline. Beading and embroidery, rather than lace and layered trim, emerged as the preferred forms of embellishment.

Significantly, 1919 saw the emergence of what would become defining elements of 1920s fashion: straight-line dresses, shorter skirts, and simplified undergarments. This transition reflected broader social changes: women's increased participation in public life, the influence of sports and leisure activities on clothing design, and evolving concepts of feminine identity in the post-war period.